Houppelande

Houppelande eller houpelande (uttales omtrent ouppla:d) var en lang, vid kjortel eller kåpe som ble brukt som ytterdrakt av begge kjønn^[2] i den fransk-burgundiske overklassemoten i seinmiddelalderen^[2]^[3], nærmere bestemt fra omkring 1370 til omkring 1450. Imidlertid var houppelanden et vanlig plagg fra 1300-tallet helt til slutten av 1500-tallet.^[2]^[4] Houppelandene var omfangsrike og hadde mange folder. De kunne også ha stående krage, høyt belte^[5], slep og pelsverk. Ermene var vide, ofte slepende «engleermer», og ikke sjelden dekorert med karakteristiske fliker eller tunger langs kantene.^[6]

Historikk og utbredelse[rediger | rediger kilde]

Houppelandene var typiske for den overdrevne gotiske klesmoten ved det burgundiske hoffet som preget store deler av Mellom-Europa. Mens renessansemoten var under utvikling i Italia, fikk gotikken en siste oppblomstring rundt handelsknutepunktene Brugge og Gent i Flandern på midten av 1400-tallet. I denne moten inngikk foruten houppelande blant annet snabelsko og spesielle hodeplagg som chaperon, sendelbinde og hennin.^[2] Stoffene var gjerne fargerike og overdådige. Mange plagg ble dessuten dekorert med bjeller eller kanter av flagrende tunger eller fliker i den såkalte flammegotikken.

Varianter av kjortelen ble videreført opp gjennom århundrene i form av side embetskapper for dommere og akademikere.

Referanser[rediger | rediger kilde]

^ «Extinct Fashion Trends: The Full, Forgotten History Of The Houppelande». TheGloss (engelsk). 30. juli 2015. Arkivert fra originalen 19. oktober 2017. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Paula Baxter (22. januar 2009). «What Was the Houppelande?». The New York Public Library. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017.
^ «Rosalie's Medieval Woman - Houppelandes». rosaliegilbert.com. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «The houppelande is a specific kind of medieval overdress which was widely worn in the 15th century. It replaced the more fitted surcotes and overgowns, although like them, often showed off the gown underneath which was more costly and expensive. Technically, is is a surcote, but became known as a garment in its own right. It was always worn with an undergown, never alone.»
^ «Houppelande - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages». www.fashionencyclopedia.com. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «The houppelande was a long, very full outer garment from late in the Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500). First appearing in Europe in about 1350, the houppelande was worn by men over the top of a tunic and hose, or by women over a long underrobe. The houppelande was close-fitting in the shoulders but then billowed outward from there in many folds of fabric. By the late fifteenth century these folds were organized into long, tubular pleats. Read more: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Houppelande.html#ixzz4vu78NsFY»
^ «Girdle | V&A Search the Collections». collections.vam.ac.uk (engelsk). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «From the mid-fifteenth century, fashionable women wore broad and short girdles like this one high on the ribcage, over a houppelande, a full-skirted, long-sleeved outer robe.»
^ «A knight offering his heart to a lady (Mirror back) | V&A Search the Collections». collections.vam.ac.uk (engelsk). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «Fragment of a mirror back depicting a knight offering a heart to a lady in a garden flanked by buildings. The subjects is within a quatrefoil, the spandrils of which are filled with tracery and roses. / He is wearing a belted and buttoned pourpoint with sword and the lady is dressed in a houppelande with long tippets hanging from the sleeves at the elbows; her hair is braided and netted.»

Litteratur[rediger | rediger kilde]

Ribiero, Aileen: Dress and Morality, Batsford, 1986, reprinted Berg, 2003, ISBN 1-8597-3782-X
Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979.

Eksterne lenker[rediger | rediger kilde]

(en) Houppelande – kategori av bilder, video eller lyd på Commons

[1] «Extinct Fashion Trends: The Full, Forgotten History Of The Houppelande». TheGloss (engelsk). 30. juli 2015. Arkivert fra originalen 19. oktober 2017. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017.

[:0-2] Paula Baxter (22. januar 2009). «What Was the Houppelande?». The New York Public Library. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017.

[3] «Rosalie's Medieval Woman - Houppelandes». rosaliegilbert.com. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «The houppelande is a specific kind of medieval overdress which was widely worn in the 15th century. It replaced the more fitted surcotes and overgowns, although like them, often showed off the gown underneath which was more costly and expensive. Technically, is is a surcote, but became known as a garment in its own right. It was always worn with an undergown, never alone.»

[4] «Houppelande - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages». www.fashionencyclopedia.com. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «The houppelande was a long, very full outer garment from late in the Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500). First appearing in Europe in about 1350, the houppelande was worn by men over the top of a tunic and hose, or by women over a long underrobe. The houppelande was close-fitting in the shoulders but then billowed outward from there in many folds of fabric. By the late fifteenth century these folds were organized into long, tubular pleats. Read more: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Houppelande.html#ixzz4vu78NsFY»

[5] «Girdle | V&A Search the Collections». collections.vam.ac.uk (engelsk). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «From the mid-fifteenth century, fashionable women wore broad and short girdles like this one high on the ribcage, over a houppelande, a full-skirted, long-sleeved outer robe.»

[6] «A knight offering his heart to a lady (Mirror back) | V&A Search the Collections». collections.vam.ac.uk (engelsk). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Besøkt 18. oktober 2017. «Fragment of a mirror back depicting a knight offering a heart to a lady in a garden flanked by buildings. The subjects is within a quatrefoil, the spandrils of which are filled with tracery and roses. / He is wearing a belted and buttoned pourpoint with sword and the lady is dressed in a houppelande with long tippets hanging from the sleeves at the elbows; her hair is braided and netted.»

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